Soak the clams (20 minutes). Cover them with cold, lightly salted water. This is common practice to let the clams release sand, and it is optional if your clams are labeled as purged. Lift them out of the water instead of pouring, so the sand stays in the bottom.

Scrub and sort. Rinse each clam under cold water and scrub the shell. Discard any with cracked or broken shells. If a clam is slightly open, tap it; discard it if it does not close.

Mix the spices. In a heatproof bowl large enough to hold all the clams later, stir together the cayenne, smoked paprika, brown sugar, garlic powder, and black pepper.

Start the steam (about 2 minutes). Bring the stock and lemon juice to a simmer in a large pot over medium-high heat. You should see steady bubbles and visible steam when you lift the lid.

Add the clams and cover. Tip in the clams, put the lid on, and set a timer for 4 minutes. The first sign of success is shells starting to gape open.

Pull the clams as they open (4 to 9 minutes). Lift the lid and use tongs to move every open clam into the spice bowl. The meat should look plump and moist, not shrunken. Re-cover the pot and check every minute or so. Discard any clam still shut after 9 minutes.

Heat the butter (about 1 minute). While the last clams steam, melt the butter and oil together in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is melted and gently bubbling. Pour it straight over the spices and whisk. It will sizzle, so keep your face back. The paste should turn deep brick red and look glossy.

Toss and loosen. Add the clams to the bowl and toss until every shell is coated. Spoon in 2 tbsp (30 ml) of the steaming liquid from the top of the pot, leaving the gritty liquid at the bottom behind, and toss once more.

Serve right away. Pile the clams over the bread, add the pickles, and set out lemon wedges. The bread soaks up the sauce, and that is the best bite of the dish.