Labskaus Cured Beef, Beetroot, and Potato Mash: The Ugly Duckling of German Cuisine

Let’s address the elephant in the room immediately. Labskaus looks weird. If you have never seen it before, you might think someone already ate your dinner and put it back on the plate. It is a bright pink pile of mush topped with a fried egg and usually flanked by a fish. 🐟

But here is the truth: Labskaus is absolutely delicious.

I remember the first time I ordered this in a rustic tavern in Hamburg. The waiter set the plate down, and I just stared at it. I thought, “Did I really just pay 18 Euros for pink mashed potatoes?” But then I took a bite. The salty cured beef, the earthy sweetness of the beetroot, and the creaminess of the potato all hit at once. It was comfort food on steroids. 🤯

If you judge food solely by its Instagram potential, you will miss out on one of the greatest maritime dishes in history. This article isn’t just a recipe; it’s a defense of a culinary underdog. We are making authentic Labskaus today, and you are going to love it.

What on Earth is Labskaus?

You might wonder how this dish even came into existence. Well, imagine you are a sailor in the 18th century. You have been at sea for months. You have no refrigerator, no fresh veggies, and your teeth are getting loose from scurvy. What do you eat? ⚓️

You eat salted meat, preserved beets, and potatoes.

Cooks on these ships threw everything into a pot and mashed it up because the sailors often couldn’t chew tough meat (dental hygiene wasn’t a priority back then). So, Labskaus was born out of necessity. It is the original “survival smoothie,” but savory and way heartier.

Why You Should Cook This (Besides the History)

• Flavor Complexity: It balances salty, sweet, sour, and savory in every bite.
• Comfort Level 100: It is basically fancy corned beef hash.
• Conversation Starter: Serve this to guests and watch their faces. It’s hilarious. :/)

The Great Corned Beef Debate

Let’s talk about the meat. Traditionalists argue about this constantly. Some say you must use fresh brisket and cure it yourself. Others say tinned corned beef is the only way to get that specific texture.

IMO, life is too short to cure your own beef for a mash. High-quality canned corned beef actually works wonders here. It breaks down perfectly into the potato, creating that signature texture. If you want to be fancy, use leftover salt beef or brisket, but don’t feel bad about opening a tin.

Key Tip: Do not buy the cheap stuff that looks like pet food. Buy high-quality corned beef with visible muscle fibers. The texture matters. 🥩

The Ingredient Trinity: Beef, Beets, Potato

You cannot substitute these three core pillars. If you take out the beets, you just have hash. If you take out the beef, you have pink mashed potatoes. If you take out the potato… well, you get the idea.

1. The Potatoes 🥔

You need a starchy potato. You want them to fall apart and fluff up. Waxy potatoes will give you a gummy texture that feels like glue in your mouth. Go for Russets or a similar floury variety.

2. The Beetroot 🟣

Pickled beets are the secret weapon. They provide the acidity that cuts through the heavy fat of the beef. Plus, they give the dish that shocking pink color. Fresh boiled beets work too, but I prefer the tang of the pickled variety.

3. The Beef 🐄

As mentioned, salt-cured beef is the standard. It provides the seasoning for the whole dish. You rarely need to add extra salt because the beef brings enough sodium to the party.

Detailed Recipe: Authentic Hamburg Labskaus

Alright, let’s get cooking. Grab your apron and maybe a stiff drink, because we are channeling 18th-century sailors today.

Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 40 minutes

Serves: 4 brave souls

Ingredients List

• 800g (1.7 lbs) Potatoes: Floury variety, peeled and chopped into chunks.
• 500g (1.1 lbs) Corned Beef: Canned or cooked salt beef, shredded.
• 200g (7 oz) Pickled Beetroot: Jarred is fine, chop them finely.
• 2 Onions: Medium size, finely diced.
• 50g (3.5 tbsp) Butter: Unsalted.
• 150ml (2/3 cup) Beef Stock: Or liquid from the corned beef can.
• 100ml (1/2 cup) Beetroot Juice: From the jar.
• 4 Eggs: Fresh.
• 4 Pickled Herrings (Rollmops): Optional but highly recommended.
• 4 Gherkins: Pickled cucumbers.
• Black Pepper: Freshly ground.
• Nutmeg: Just a pinch.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Phase 1: The Potato Base

1. Boil the Spuds

Put your peeled potato chunks into a large pot of salted water. Bring them to a boil and cook until they are tender. A knife should slide through them with zero resistance. Drain them well. You do not want watery mash. 💧

2. Mash ‘Em Up

While they are still hot, mash the potatoes. Do not use a blender or food processor; use a hand masher or a ricer. You want a rustic texture, not wallpaper paste.

Phase 2: The Meat Mix

3. Sauté the Onions

In a large skillet or Dutch oven, melt half the butter over medium heat. Toss in the diced onions. Cook them until they turn translucent and soft. Do not burn them; we want sweet, soft onions. 🧅

4. Add the Beef

Dump the corned beef into the pan with the onions. Break it up with a wooden spoon. Fry it for about 5–6 minutes. You want the fat to render out and the meat to heat through. It should look like a loose hash.

5. The Pink Transformation

Add the chopped beetroot and the beetroot juice to the pan. This is the moment of truth. Watch the mixture turn that vibrant, shocking magenta. Stir it well.

Phase 3: The Marriage

6. Combine Everything

Add the mashed potatoes to the skillet with the meat and beet mixture. Stir everything together vigorously.

7. Adjust the Consistency

Pour in the beef stock slowly. You want a creamy, loose consistency. It should not be a stiff brick, but it also shouldn’t be soup. Think “risotto” texture. Add the nutmeg and plenty of black pepper. Taste it. Does it need salt? Probably not, but check anyway.

Phase 4: The Toppings

8. Fry the Eggs

In a separate non-stick pan, fry your four eggs sunny-side up. You want a runny yolk. The yolk acts as a rich sauce that coats the salty beef mixture. It is essential. 🍳

9. Plate It Up

Spoon a generous mound of Labskaus onto each plate. Top each mound with a fried egg. Place a pickled herring (Rollmop) and a gherkin on the side.

Nutritional Information (Per Serving)

Estimates based on the recipe above.

Warning: This is a sodium bomb. Drink plenty of water.

How to Eat It (Yes, There is a Strategy)

You might look at the plate and wonder, “Do I mix the fish in?”

No. Please do not mix the fish into the mash.

The herring sits on the side as a palate cleanser. You take a bite of the rich, warm, salty mash with a bit of egg yolk. Then, you take a bite of the cold, sour herring or pickle to cut the richness. The contrast in temperature and texture makes this dish work.

Some people—mostly tourists—try to chop the herring up and stir it into the hot mash. Don’t be that person. It ruins the temperature contrast. Eat them separately but concurrently.

Why Visuals Deceive You

Why does our brain hate pink meat mush? Evolutionarily, pink mush usually meant raw or spoiled meat. But here, the pink comes from the harmless beetroot.

I tried to photograph this dish for a blog once. I spent hours adjusting the lighting. No matter what I did, it looked like something from a sci-fi movie. But the second I put the camera down and ate it, I didn’t care.

Pro Tip: If you want to make it look slightly more appetizing for guests, sprinkle some fresh chives or parsley over the top. The green breaks up the overwhelming pinkness. 🌿

Variations You Might Encounter

If you travel around Northern Germany or Scandinavia, you will see different versions of this.

• The Danish Version (Skipperlabskovs): They often skip the beets entirely. It ends up looking like a grey meat stew. Honestly? It tastes great, but it looks even worse than the pink version.
• The Bremen Style: Sometimes they grind the meat much finer, almost into a puree. I prefer the Hamburg style with chunks, but to each their own.
• The “Fancy” Version: Some modern restaurants serve deconstructed Labskaus. They put a square of confit beef, a beet foam, and potato puree. It costs 30 Euros and leaves you hungry. Stick to the rustic version.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make this vegetarian?

Actually, yes. You can swap the corned beef for smoked tofu or a robust meat substitute. The beets and potatoes do a lot of the heavy lifting flavor-wise. Just add extra soy sauce or smoked salt to mimic the cured meat flavor.

Can I freeze it?

You can freeze the mash, but the texture might get a bit watery when you thaw it. Do not freeze the fried egg or the herring (obviously). If you freeze it, reheat it in a pan and add a knob of butter to bring the texture back.

Why is it called Labskaus?

The etymology is murky. Some say it comes from the Latvian “Labs kauss” meaning “good bowl.” Others say it’s old sailor slang for “hodgepodge.” I like the “good bowl” theory. It fits.

Final Thoughts: Embrace the Ugly

We live in an era of perfectly curated food photos. We want rainbow bagels and symmetrical avocado toast. Labskaus is the antidote to that. It is messy, chaotic, and visually confusing.

But it is also honest.

It tells a story of survival. It brings people together. And frankly, after a long night out, nothing—and I mean nothing—cures a hangover better than a plate of greasy, salty Labskaus.

So, go buy a jar of pickles and some corned beef. Ignore your instincts that say “don’t eat the pink mush.” Dig in. You might just find your new favorite comfort food.